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New York Fashion Week just finished, and Who What Wear’s editors have been taking in all of the shows—and noting some key emerging trends.
“There was so much sheer. I feel like rather than naming the collections that had sheer, [it] was more hard to find a collection that didn’t do it,” said Who What Wear Editor in Chief Kat Collings.
“[At] Khaite, for example, sheer was just a major, major player in the collection … So I guess this is also a forewarning to figure out your sheer strategy. Invest in some undergarments that work for you!”
Editorial Director Lauren Eggertsen also noted that the naked shoe trend that popped up this summer (in shoes like jelly sandals and mesh flats) is here to stay.
“It wasn’t just like maybe a fleeting trend from this summer that felt fun and sort of kitschy to buy into. It’s going to continue, which is great if you already own those.”
For the latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Collings and Eggertsen share their biggest takeaways, top highlights, and most exciting trends from NYFW. Plus, some of our other Who What Wear editors call in with some in-the-moment show reports.
For excerpts from their conversation, scroll below.
Kat Collings: What were some of your favorite moments of this fashion week, Lauren? Any standout moments or shows?
Lauren Eggertsen: Yes, personally, I just went to the Tory Burch show last night, which I feel like I was kind of waiting for all week. I feel like for the past few seasons, she’s just done such a good job of being a standout, being a favorite, creating clothes that are just so inspirational and unique, but also resonate with our shoppers, with her audience. And it’s just been so exciting to see the evolution of that brand.
It was set at the Domino Sugar Factory in Brooklyn and they fully transformed the space to look like a pool. So there were aqua tiles lining the floor and the walls. and it was just so gorgeous. And I personally love like a huge show set up like that, that kind of has, pulls out all the stops. it feels very fun as a guest to be able to experience that.
LE: What about you? Any standout moments for you, Kat?
KC: Yeah, there are a few. The first day of Fashion Week, Alaïa showed and definitely left a mark and set the tone. The show was held at the Guggenheim.
LE: That’s the first time that [any brand] has ever shown there, right?
KC: Yeah, which was really a surprising fun fact to me, given that it’s such an iconic New York location. I guess they needed the right host to make it worth it. One interesting thing about this collection was that there were no zippers or buttons used in the construction of the garments, which to me is, you know, a designer choosing to give himself a really tough task. And to show off the craftsmanship and what you can do in sort of sculpting fabric and making it form to the body without these typical crutches of normal tailoring. There were a lot of sculptural looks that kind of mimicked the architecture of the Guggenheim with the sort of that iconic sort of swirling staircase. So it was a big moment. That was probably the biggest show that happened at New York Fashion Week, I would say.
KC: [The designers are] sharing for spring, so it’s fall right now, so you kind of have to wait a minute before these clothes become available to purchase. But you can always pocket a styling trick in the moment, right? So I’m curious if you saw anything that you’re going to be trying out.
LE: I feel like the styling of the looks that were most memorable to me were doing this kind of balancing act. There was a really amazing look at Brandon Maxwell; it was this gorgeous, bright silver and shiny dress that could be so formal, and over it was layered a more worker, tough kind of jacket with a funnel neck, and it was paired with like a lower shoe. And that contrast was just so beautiful. And I think it definitely inspired my outfit that I wore to that Tory Burch show. Trying to find those pieces that you would never pair together and create something that’s a bit more unexpected. Tory Burch also did this and Proenza [Schouler] as well. I feel like all these brands are reminding us that the coolest outfits kind of are formed when you don’t just stay in one lane.
KC: Okay, leaving New York Fashion Week as we head into the rest of the month. What’s exciting you most?
Eggertsen: Personally, I’m always excited for brands that really lead the charge with It items that trickle down, whether you’re going to buy the [It] bag, or the more affordable option. I feel like Miu Miu and Prada always are kind of the leaders in that space in a lot of ways. So I’m excited for that from a reporting standpoint. But I’m also excited to see what Chemena Kamali does with her second collection at Chloé. I feel like everyone is talking about that. Boho’s back because of her and because of her new collection. So that will be very exciting to see in Paris.
KC: Yes, absolutely. I think that is probably a very anticipated show given the success of her debut. There’s just so much ahead.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. Next, check out our interview with Maris Jones.
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