Welcome to Who What Wear Travels, a series of curated guides to destinations the fashion set loves. Consider this your download on everything from the chicest stays to the most memorable meals to the perfect travel wardrobe, all vetted by stylish locals and well-traveled fashion folks.
Sandy beaches, laid-back towns, a rich culinary and artisanal culture, and the sheer proximity to the U.S.—I don’t need to spell out all the reasons why it’s a good idea to book a vacation in Mexico, so let’s just agree that the list of draws is lengthy. Of course, the next question is where to go, and there seems to be a singular answer among my most in-the-know friends right now: Puerto Escondido. Beach towns are aplenty in Mexico, but few have the tight-knit feel that Puerto Escondido does. Situated on the Pacific coast in the state of Oaxaca, it’s a far cry from the throngs of tourists and large-scale resorts in areas like Cancún and Cabo San Lucas, which is part of the draw. “Untouched” is how celebrity and VIP stylist Coco Schiffer describes it. Schiffer visited for the first time last year as part of a brand trip with Artless Forever. “You can’t see many hotels or properties from the main roads, and it takes a bit of driving before you hit them. However, once you make it to the properties, the architecture and design is unparalleled. Many are built to blend into the natural environment, making it a truly special experience,” she says.
Surfers have been making the trek here for decades to chase its legendary waves, and while its roots as a rustic surf town can certainly still be felt, it’s taking on a more grown-up feel these days with the arrival of several design-forward hotels, a burgeoning culinary scene, modern and contemporary art outposts, and—perhaps most notably—nonstop flights from the U.S. (United Airlines is adding routes to begin this spring, and it’s only a matter of time until others follow suit.) Vogue, Condé Nast Traveler, and the Michelin Guide have all taken notice too, and the latter doled out its esteemed Michelin Keys to several new hotels.
In Puerto Escondido, you’re here for the beach, but if you can peel yourself away long enough, a day trip to Casa Wabi is in order. The art foundation is less of a traditional museum and more of an artist retreat and cultural center. Of course, no trip is complete without lots of time in and around the water—surfing, fishing, whale watching, and beachside horseback riding are all on the menu for a serene getaway here. As for where you’ll want to stay, a new crop of boutique hotels has emerged to highlight sustainability and modern Mexican design, and the luxury options are simple yet stylish. With that, I’m taking the opportunity to curate my ultimate guide to the Oaxacan surf town, including everything from the fashion person–adored boutique hotel that’s probably already on your Pinterest board to the best beaches, mezcal bar, surf school, and so much more.
Where to Stay
(Image credit: Levi Wells; Camila Jurado; Romain Laprade)
Casa TO is so striking it almost looks AI generated—almost. The brutalist architecture defined by exposed cement and an open-plan design with semicircles that look like they were scooped out of the foundation is a Pinterest-board fantasy come to life. It’s the brainchild of renowned architect Ludwig Godefroy and a celebration of various Mexican artisans and design studios. With just nine suites and only its on-site bar Glou Glou, the retreat is about as low-key as it gets—just you and your immersive surroundings.
(Image credit: Anna Wolf)
Casona Sforza is one of a few select Mexican hotels to receive a Michelin Key in the guide’s first iteration of the award, which is a new category rolled out in 2024 that recognizes the most exceptional hotels that are evaluated based on their design, service, character, and attention to detail. Currently, only 13 countries have this distinction, and Mexico is one of them with Casona Sforza. As you’ll come to realize, many of the hotels here blend nature and design seamlessly, and this spot is one of the premier examples. Both the common areas and its 11 suites are defined by vaulted rattan ceilings, giving the whole property a bohemian aesthetic. The lodging experience is enhanced by the culinary offering of La Bóveda, the hotel’s restaurant led by chefs Vanessa Franco and Andrés Trujillo that showcases locally sourced products. Casona Sforza also offers guests yoga sessions, holistic massages, surfing lessons, and nature-based activities to immerse them in the destination.
(Image credit: Andrea David)
Sustainability meets modern design at Terrestre, a retreat of 14 villas with an on-site hammam and private beach. It comes as the latest addition to Grupo Habita’s family of lifestyle hotels, which is essentially a short list of the best of the best in design and hospitality throughout the country. Impressively, the hotel operates completely off the grid using 100% solar power and invites guests to reconnect with nature and synchronize their day with the sun’s natural circadian rhythm. Fourteen villas, an open-air restaurant, a circular pool, and an immersive spa are what you’ll find at this sophisticated yet simple hotel.
Where to Dine
An omakase restaurant isn’t the first place you’d expect to find in a traditional surf town, but then again, Kakurega Omakase isn’t quite so traditional either. Chef Keisuke Harada serves up cuts of fish that are exclusively caught in the local area that’s set underneath a palapa roof in the Oaxacan jungle next to the stylish Hotel Escondido.
Cobarde is a small bar in the Punta Pájaros area near Puerto Escondido that specializes in weird, small batches of mezcal, making for one of the most interesting collections in the region.
There was one restaurant that was mentioned by almost everyone I spoke with about where to eat in Puerto Escondido—Chicama. Phoenix Anderson, an NYC-based model, put it simply: “The ceviche is insane—go!” The Peruvian spot is everything you want in coastal cuisine—ceviche, yes, but also seared octopus, fried plantains, and passion fruit margaritas. The move is to have dinner here and stick around for a cocktail when it turns into one of the few hot spots for nightlife in town.
What to Do
In Puerto Escondido, you surf. If you’re brave enough to hop on a board for a lesson, Anderson gushes about the programs at Oasis Surf and Spanish School. “I thought I knew how to surf until I came to Puerto and saw how powerful the waves were,” she says. “For me, it was intimidating, but the coaches at Oasis are super involved and knowledgeable. They have photographers taking photos of you, which is not only great for memories, but they also have sessions where you look back at the photos and point out what you’re doing wrong and how to improve. It’s extremely helpful.” Playa Carrizalillo is the calmer of the beach breaks, she notes, and the main La Punta Zicatela is where you’ll find more advanced surfers.
Even if you spend 99% of your time being horizontal by the beach or pool, no trip to Puerto Escondido is complete without a visit to Fundación Casa Wabi. “This was honestly such a crazy experience,” Schiffer tells me. “You drive for what feels like hours down this bumpy dirt road and then pull up on this massive horizontal concrete structure. It’s such a shock to the system because it’s in the most random location. We had a tour guide take us around the exhibit, and he told us about the art installations and how each artist who is featured takes up residency at the property for a few months while creating the pieces. They are all inspired by the land itself. I loved the neon-red rocks—they felt out of place but stood out dramatically.”
Where to Beach
Stretching for over two miles along the Oaxacan coast is Playa Zicatela, and right at the southern end is where you’ll find Playa La Punta, one of only a few beaches in the area. Here’s where to head to try your surfing skills on more advanced waves or to simply soak in some of the most breathtaking sunsets. Brand consultant Sydney Schiff tells me that she’d be remiss not to mention that several nonprofit groups have emerged to combat serious issues facing the area as the beach community sees a rise in tourists. SOS Puerto and Costa Unida are two groups giving a platform to the issues in the area.
Set in a sheltered cove west of the center that’s reached by a stairway of 157 steps, Playa Carrizalillo is where you’ll want to head to actually swim and get in the water as a beginner surfer, as it’s more protected from the harsh currents you’ll find at the main beaches. It’s also incredibly photogenic and a place that encapsulates the magic of the area. “Puerto is on a different time,” Anderson continues. “It’s slow, quiet, and peaceful. That’s what I love about it. Everyone is able to take their time and be in the present moment. That’s what makes it different.”
What to Pack
“The less clothes the better. It’s hot,” Schiffer advises. Since most of the structures feature an outdoor-indoor situation, she says to steer clear of anything that’s too weather-resistant. Think heat- and humidity-proof pieces like breezy linens, uncomplicated dresses, and simple slide sandals. “I was in flip-flops and bikinis all day,” she admits. To that end, the style vibe is very minimal and low-key here, so the move is to go for a vacation wardrobe of easy essentials and punctuate your outfits with standout accessories. If you opt for a fancier dress and heels for dinner, you may be the only one. They have a ton of Japanese influence, Schiffer adds, so she suggests leaning into that and keeping your looks minimal—a few fun necklaces and accessories will do the trick.
HOMMEGIRLS
70’s Striped Cotton Shirt
Miu Miu
Raso Silk-Blend Shorts
Birkenstock
Arizona Sandal
Christopher Esber
Knotted Silk Maxi Skirt
Manebí X Alex Rivière
Leather Knot Tote
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