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EXCLUSIVE: Paris Good Fashion Expands Sustainability Initiative to New York, London and Milan

EXCLUSIVE: Paris Good Fashion Expands Sustainability Initiative to New York, London and Milan

PARIS — French nonprofit Paris Good Fashion is going on a road trip.

The association, which is dedicated to accelerating sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry, is taking its public consultation international for the first time, landing in New York, London and Milan.

The New York launch, set for March 12 at Printemps’ new U.S. outpost, will leverage the Parisian retailer’s expansive secondhand luxury space, which has been a key category at the department store since its opening last year.

The expansion is part of PGF’s push to engage fashion capitals and international audiences, with the goal of facilitating conversation around sustainable fashion, said cofounder and director Isabelle Lefort.

“If you take Milan, New York and London, they are really the traditional fashion capitals, so there is a culture of fashion in all these cities,” she said. Partnerships with leading institutions and media — including Fashion Times and Grazia in Milan, and Mills Fabrica in London — will support events that aim to bring together a diverse cross-section of participants, from fashion enthusiasts to industry pros as well as students from local fashion schools.

Lefort is keen to describe the initiative as more than a survey, but a democratic and participatory discussion process designed to gauge the maturity and sentiment of different populations by country. Participants will propose solutions, debate ideas, and vote on suggestions, producing nuanced insights rather than simple metrics.

The approach allows the organization to track shifts in sentiment over time and across markets, Lefort said.

“This is really to create a small movement, and, step by step, improve the discussion,” she said.

The 2026 expansion builds on the group’s first consultation in 2020, which drew more than 107,000 participants, generated 3,319 proposals, and nearly half a million votes. That initial effort helped accelerate initiatives including secondhand sales, eco-design, reuse and recycling of plastic hangers and polybags, and better management of raw materials.

The context for the new consultation is markedly different from 2020, said Lefort.

“It was before Shein existed and the internet [shopping] was not so developed, and secondhand was really small. The context has really changed,” she said.

She pointed to recent industry data showing that in France, secondhand sales now represent 19 percent of the clothing market, while ultra-fast fashion — including platforms like Shein and Temu — makes up 6 percent of clothing volume and 2 percent of value.

“I think, for example on durability, the consumer will answer very differently than before,” she said.

New York was chosen as a key city not only due to its fashion week and significance as a global hub, but the ongoing mobilization around sustainable legislation, including the New York State Fashion Act, even though the legislation has not yet advanced.

“In the U.S., it is a little bit complicated with a new government and sustainability is not in the front row. But in New York [state], it’s continuing, and a lot of French and international brands are in New York,” she said.

She also noted that the organic food and secondhand movements both took root in New York decades ago, giving the city a unique potential as a laboratory for sustainable fashion.

Lefort highlighted Italy as another key market, with support of its fashion week organizers. “Camera della Moda is making a lot of moves on sustainability. They want to really improve the ‘Made in Italy’ [label], and so it’s very interesting,” she said, noting that Milanese participants could provide insight into both production practices and consumer expectations that differ from France and New York.

“We will really have the opportunity to understand the maturity of the feelings on this topic of each population by country,” said Lefort.

The organization’s second — and growing — Midsummer Camp sustainability conference is set for July.

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