The internet fad of Chinamaxxing has the shelf life of unrefrigerated milk, but the country’s centuries-old learnings will keep trucking along as new hands give them fresh shapes.
Take Icicle Atelier, the high-end line of the Shanghai- and Paris-based fashion brand, which took over the wing usually dedicated to fashion exhibitions in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs for its fall showcase.
In an upstairs gallery was a wider overview of Icicle’s “natural way,” a shorthand that describes the 30-year-old company’s approach built on natural fibers used with their original hues or dyed with natural pigments.
On display were monochromatic smart-breezy silhouettes for urbanites drawn from its five product lines, one for each of the five elements in Chinese culture — metal, wood, water, fire and earth. Accompanying them were a smattering of artworks and objects but more importantly, spotlights on age-old techniques.
Take a glossy generously-proportioned trenchcoat.
It was made from Dong cloth, a traditional fabric from the southwestern province of Guizhou, whose luster comes from an egg-white wash beaten into the fiber throughout its spinning and weaving process, not a coating.
Elsewhere, cartels revealed what plant cocktail resulted in each colorway of a boxy tote.
Downstairs, the lineup that creative director Bénédicte Laloux offered was steeped in those ideas and colors, delivered as palatable, almost-familiar silhouettes that will do well on a retail rack.
There were full volumes, deceptively simple constructions, a hint of proportion play in collars, cuffs and the puffiness of various layers. Suits for him and her came in a variety of widths, but all felt easy polish rather than overly dressy.
Supersize coats came with wide collars, tops looked like they were made from a single bolt of fabric while shoulders and necklines had interesting constructions, like tweaked raglan sleeves for jackets or a slash-neck collar on a sweater.
Up close, loops and trailing panels emerged, suggesting multiwear and enabling the wearer to make them more or less sculptural depending what the moment called for.
In hand, textures sang. Some would argue this was the kind of detail lost in a runway format.
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