In the ’60s, the silhouette returned when mod women embraced loose clothing and shorter hemlines that became synonymous with the burgeoning sexual revolution. And decades later, riot grrrl and grunge musicians brought back the babydoll once more — subverting the garment’s associations with ‘innocent’ femininity by juxtaposing it with the darker themes of their music and pairing it with ripped stockings, smeared lipstick, and smudged eye makeup. The babydoll has always been a charged object in fashion. That part hasn’t changed. What has changed is the sheer intensity of the response to a woman simply wearing one. Because in our current cultural moment, it is no longer just about the dress.