From chunky bands to larger lab-grown diamonds and distinctive settings, engagement rings have undergone a noticeable shift in recent years. Couples are increasingly opting for more personal designs that push the boundaries of tradition in favor of individuality. Following trends like curved bands, multistone settings, and modern takes on antique cuts, the latest change is challenging perhaps the most conventional element of all: the diamond itself. Now, a rise in alternative gemstones — from sapphires to pearls — is redefining the classic engagement ring.

New data from Adobe Firefly’s AI engagement ring design tool offers a closer look at how this shift is playing out in real time, as more couples use AI tools to design and visualize their dream rings. Firefly’s engagement ring prompts show a clear increase in gemstone-centered designs. According to the data, interest in alternative gemstone rings is surging across the board, with pearls up 89 percent, sapphires up 44 percent, aquamarines up 40 percent, emeralds up 31 percent, and rubies up 30 percent, while searches for diamonds have declined 15 percent.

The trend also varies by generation: Gen Z is driving an 86 percent spike in pearl-related designs, while Millennials continue to show stronger interest in both diamonds (up 16 percent) and emeralds (up 22 percent). The data suggests consumers are increasingly moving beyond a diamond-first framework toward color, meaning and individuality.

Fine jewelry brands specializing in wedding jewelry are also seeing the rise of gemstone engagement rings reflected in client demand. Jillian Sassone, founder of Marrow Fine, notes that one gemstone in particular is leading the category. “Sapphires are the most popular alternative gemstone we’re seeing right now, especially in shades of green and blue. They have the durability people want for everyday wear while adding color in a way that still feels timeless and effortless,” Sassone said to WWD.

Other colored stones are also gaining traction as couples explore more expressive options beyond the traditional diamond. “Emeralds continue to be a favorite for their rich, saturated color and slightly vintage feel, while rubies appeal to those looking for something bold, classic, and a little less expected than a traditional diamond,” Sassone said. “For those drawn to a moodier, edgier look, we’re also seeing more interest in black diamonds and black onyx.”

Heritage jewelers, mass retailers and direct-to-consumer brands are all expanding their colored gemstone engagement ring offerings to meet growing demand. Brands such as Tiffany & Co., Blue Nile, and Kay Jewelers have broadened engagement ring assortments to include more gemstone styles, while more accessible, nontraditional wedding jewelry brands like Catbird and Mejuri have helped normalize alternative stones among younger, style-driven consumers. Across the market, from legacy luxury to digitally native labels, the move toward color, individuality and symbolism over the traditional diamond-first approach is clear.

Sassone points to a deeper shift in how couples approach the engagement ring selection process. Rather than defaulting to a diamond-first mindset, she says alternative gemstones are becoming central to the conversation from the start. “Alternative gemstones are a natural extension of the shift we’re seeing toward more personal engagement rings,” she said. “As lab-grown diamonds have become more widely available, many clients are looking for other ways to make their ring feel distinctive. Color has become one of the biggest ways to do that.”

For many couples, that personalization goes beyond appearance. “Rather than starting with a traditional diamond and working from there, people are choosing stones they’re genuinely drawn to — whether that’s because of the color, symbolism (maybe it’s their partner’s birthstone), or overall aesthetic,” Sassone added. “Alternative gemstones offer a level of individuality and personality that resonates with couples looking for something that feels less standardized and more personal.”

As engagement ring design continues to diversify and expand, color is increasingly viewed as a starting point rather than an “alternative” — signaling a broader redefining of what modern engagement jewelry can be.