Questioning the pertinance of the runway format, Emeric Tchatchoua decided to create a documentary movie exploring the notion of the Peacemakers, a fictional group of people working under the radar since the ’80s to promote pacifism, intended as a metaphor encouraging people to work for change.

“There is a lot of disconnection with what’s going on in the world and how fashion designers react to what’s going on,” Tchatchoua said ahead of his presentation. “It almost feels like there is a wall and people don’t see what’s happening, and I had this idea of doing something different.”

He mixed fictional news footage with interviews with figures including Sarah Andelman, Oxmo Puccino and Anthony Bambury, exploring the codes — both sartorial and otherwise — of this mysterious movement. “Fashion is something that’s beyond clothes; I feel like it also carries messages,” Tchatchoua said.

He explored the sartorial codes of his imaginary movement, like a secret language those in the know would instantly recognize, offering up a clear vision of how to spot one of the clan from afar thanks to their dapper suiting, cloth caps, long shirtdresses and an affinity with the dove emblem — all 3.Paradis signatures, incidentally.

After the showing, guests got a closer look at the designs, highlighting subtle twists that were imperceptible on screen as Tchatchoua leans further into artisanal techniques. One of the final styles featured what looked from afar to be a simple slogan T-shirt reading “I (dove) you” (with the brand’s avian logo instead of lettering) but was actually done all in beadwork.

Suits with wide Bermuda shorts had jackets that were buttoned slightly lopsided, giving them a louche charm. Checkered fabrics were another reference, on tailoring or as long shirts tied around the waist to form ankle-length skirts, while varsity jackets featured a “P” embroidery detail that was peppered throughout the collection and nodded to a preppier vibe.