Never one to shy away from the reality of the world, Hillary Taymour named her new Collina Strada collection “The World Is a Vampire.” It’s a fantastical lens that allowed her to pull from a variety of eras, and she’s just the designer to do it. “A vampire would be alive for a long time, so they have a lot in their closet,” she said at a preview in her studio.
So, yes, the tropes were here — Victorian puff sleeves, ruffle collars popping out of jackets, dresses with a lot of skin and exaggerated trains on garments. They all built a story on the runway, but off, it pulled apart as separates, proving there also was a strong business proposition. The data is there: Her business is up 95 percent on Shopify, she shared.
Taymour always begins with prints, of which there were many on ethereal paper-thin dresses billowing with fabric sashes. Other looks obscured the body, with bubble shoulders pushing forward on a top.
The designer is serious about what impact her brand has on the world and uses deadstock fabrics for jerseys and BioFluff, a Paris-based company, for fuzzy fur biodegradable coats made from recycled hemp, viscose and Tencel. She said she is the first to bring it to the runway. She worked with Stand Oil to craft handbags made of vegetable grape leather and Keen on a hybrid shoe.
“The designs for this collection were inspired by the idea of transformation— how a shoe can shift from something purely utilitarian into something femininely fashion,” she said of the two limited-edition Keen styles.
Many garments came with spiky shiny jewelry, piled on to take the night. The category is also a top seller, with many in attendance wearing pieces. While the world may be uncertain, Taymour is building a serious business for a brighter future.
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