Harris Reed is of the opinion that in this economy, clothes alone don’t cut it for designers.
“I would not be here without all the collaborations that I do,” he said backstage, reeling off his ongoing jewelry line with Missoma; “secret, fun little things in different spaces” he does with wallcoverings specialist Fromental, and the “fluid bridal” he showed for the first time in his fall lineup. Perhaps a perfume next, he mused.
But make no mistake, the London-based designer is no slouch when it comes to his fashions.
Theatricality is par for the course in Reed’s world and it was on full display in the procession of dramatic sirens he paraded at Claridge’s for an audience that included Lily Collins, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, “Heartstopper” star Joe Locke and “Loki” headliner Gugu Mbatha-Raw.
“It was really my personal take on maximalism,” the designer said. “In the sense that [it is] through so many found objects and queer, bizarre and unique different ideas that you get to the most refined version of who you are.”
An onlooker might get mired in the juxtaposition of patterns and textures on display but Reed never lost sight of what netted him a fervent fanbase over the years: exaggerated and oddly flattering hourglass silhouettes.
Sculptural necklines that extended halfway up the face or sprays of feathers jutting an arm’s span from the body appeared but the fall collection brought more approachable takes on his aesthetic.
Among them were a tailored suit that shaped and skimmed in all the right places — and revealed a laced-up back — and a surprisingly simple long bias-cut slipdress. A similar approach also guided his bridal options, such as a mermaid gown with an extra-voluminous flair or a sensual lace pairing of a tunic with a low scoop back and straight-leg trousers.
This expansion drove home Reed’s point that having range for a designer today isn’t about cycling through of-the-moments inspirations or trying to appeal to a broad customer base. A more fruitful approach is carving every last facet of your niche, whatever that may be.
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