There are some shoes that are so iconic and instantly recognizable they need no introduction: the Christian Louboutin So Kate pump, a favorite of Zendaya with its sky-high heels and red bottoms; the Valentino Rockstud; Nike Dunks or Adidas Samba; Birkenstock Arizona sandals; the UGG boot; and, of course, the Maison Margiela Tabi.

The Tabi is also one of the most controversial shoes on this list of beloved footwear, as its split-toe design is a true “love it or hate it” kind of thing. Some people are devoted Tabi wearers, with their love spanning from boots to ballet flats, pumps, and loafers, while others couldn’t imagine putting their foot in such a unique design, comparing them to hooves. Cardi B is a fan, as is Dua Lipa, and Jacob Elordi, Zendaya, and Keke Palmer have been spotted in them too. Although Margiela’s shoe is definitely the best-known interpretation, “Tabi” is actually an umbrella term for all split-toe shoe designs, and many other brands have their own versions.

Regardless of your feelings about Tabi shoes, there’s no denying that they’re one of the most iconic silhouettes of all time. But where did Tabis come from, and how did they become one of the biggest “IYKYK” footwear trends of all time? Below, we break it all down.

The History of Tabi Shoes

To understand the origin of the Tabi trend, we have to travel way, way back in time to 15th-century Japan, where split-toe socks called tabis were worn with shoes like zori and geta, or thong sandals.

The divided toe shape was thought to promote balance for the wearer, and was made from a variety of fabrics, including cotton, once it became more widely available due to trade with China. Dark blue tabi socks were commonly worn, while white socks were reserved for more formal situations.

Tabi socks are still worn and widely available in Japan today, but they have evolved into a more shoe-like design called the jika-tabi, which features a rubber sole for outdoor wear. The jika-tabi was created in 1922 by two brothers, Tokujiro and Shojiro Ishibashi, with the latter going on to found the Bridgestone tire company. The rubber tread allows for more traction, and thus the jika-tabi boot could be worn for construction or even in war.