The Italian fashion house Sergio Soldano is officially back, and its return was nothing short of theatrical. The newly revived luxury brand made its 21st-century New York Fashion Week debut with a Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection presentation at Printemps New York, in partnership with Fashion Group International Inc. (FGI). Now under the creative direction of Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella, the house unveiled a virtuosic collection defined by expressive courage, refined craftsmanship, and distinctly Italian artistry.

Among the notable figures in attendance were FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz, CEO of Printemps America Thierry Prevost, and fashion industry luminary Fern Mallis, alongside Jason Schupbach, Nicole Fischelis, Alyce Panico, Olga Ferrara, Nolan Meader, and other Manhattan tastemakers. Sergio Soldano himself was present, joined by Co-Creative Directors Premoli and Di Bella, as well as Antonio Lemma, Founder of Desire Holding, S.A., personally introducing the house’s next chapter.

Set within the grandeur of Printemps New York in the Financial District, the presentation unfolded as an immersive journey into the Maison’s universe. Guests ascended the store’s sweeping staircase before arriving at the Boudoir—an intimate, Art Deco–inflected salon imbued with unmistakable French allure. From the moment of entry, attendees were enveloped in the refined theatricality that defines Sergio Soldano’s renewed identity.

The mise-en-scène was deliberate and evocative. Select looks were suspended overhead, while others framed the perimeter, creating a striking visual dialogue throughout the room. At the center, models animated the garments in a live artistic performance, transforming the static presentation into a living tableau.

The atmosphere intensified further with an amazing violin performance by Lauren Cauley, paired with an emotive vocal performance by Minda Larsen. Together, the music infused the evening with dramatic resonance, underscoring the collection’s emotional narrative.

Spanning 107 pieces, spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, and accessories, the collection unfolded as a cohesive story. Rooted in Italian craftsmanship yet expressed through a contemporary lens, it established a seamless dialogue between heritage and modernity, affirming Sergio Soldano’s renewed vision for sophisticated urban life.

A Strategic Return to the American Market

Significantly, the house’s revival did not begin here. During the 2025 market week, Sergio Soldano first drew renewed industry attention, solidifying its partnership with Printemps New York and expanding into select U.S. retailers. Consequently, its official New York Fashion Week debut felt less like a reintroduction and more like a confident declaration of intent.

As Dario Di Bella reflected during the evening: “Both this collection and this evening are born from a deep belief shared with Maestro Sergio Soldano: that fashion holds an emotional truth and that it is one of the most authentic languages through which culture, memory, and imagination can be expressed. Fashion is not only about form, but about feeling, gesture, and storytelling. Being here tonight, surrounded by friends, supporters, and partners such as FGI and Printemps New York, feels like the most meaningful way to honour that vision and to celebrate the return of the House of Sergio Soldano.”

Thierry Prevost echoed that sentiment: “The return of Sergio Soldano feels both timely and timeless. At Printemps New York, we’re drawn to brands that honor where they come from while confidently finding a new voice, and this collection reflects that spirit beautifully.”

Similarly, Maryanne Grisz emphasized the importance of legacy aligned with innovation: “Fashion Group International Inc. has always stood at the intersection of fashion heritage and future innovation. It is our honour to celebrate the Sergio Soldano legacy while supporting fashion leaders of the future like Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella, as they, with the support of Desire Holding and in partnership with Printemps New York, chart an inspired new course for the house of Sergio Soldano.”

Inside the Sergio Soldano Fall/Winter 2026–2027 Women’s Luxury RTW Collection

Comprising 77 garments and 27 accessories, the debut collection by Premoli and Di Bella marks the house’s creative rebirth. Rather than revisiting archival silhouettes, the designers approached Sergio Soldano’s legacy as a living visual language. Every silhouette was newly conceived. Accessories were reimagined from the ground up. Craftsmanship remained paramount.

Painterly prints, created through oil painting on canvas and later transferred onto silk and noble fabrics, served as emotional anchors throughout the collection. These techniques reinforced the Maison’s Made in Italy ethos while signaling a forward-thinking sensibility.

“It was never our intention to reference the past through literal forms or silhouettes. We see Sergio Soldano’s legacy as a living visual language, expressed most powerfully through the collection’s prints,” Giovanni Premoli. “Here, memory becomes vision, and heritage is translated through elevated craftsmanship, new forms, and noble materials—shaping a renewed Sergio Soldano aesthetic rooted in Italian excellence.”

Four Defining Macro-Themes

The collection unfolded across four thematic pillars, each exploring adornment as a form of renewal and identity:

#1. The Architecture of Black, the Revelation of the Anemone

Architectural silhouettes, sculpted volumes in leather and silk, and a predominantly black palette defined a confident elegance. A handcrafted leather anemone emerged as a signature motif, symbolizing resilience, rebirth, and quiet strength.

#2. Genoa: Return to Origins

An homage to Maestro Sergio Soldano’s birthplace, this chapter translated Genoa’s historic palazzi and monumental perspectives into graphic silk prints and sculptural shapes, anchoring the revival in cultural memory.

#3. Squares in the City, Urban Geometries

Here, urban precision met sartorial precision. Clean lines, functional volumes, and vibrant accents created a wardrobe designed for fluid movement and contemporary metropolitan life.

#4. The Time of Sinopia, Rebirth

A poetic reflection on creative beginnings and inspired by preparatory fresco drawings and architectural details along Via XX Settembre in Genoa, this poetic theme transformed memory into print, gesture, and future-facing vision.

Honoring a Storied Legacy

Founded in 1968, Sergio Soldano quickly emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive fashion voices. Celebrated for bold geometry, vibrant color, and silhouettes that flattered the female form, the designer dressed cultural icons including Liz Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Monica Vitti, and Virna Lisi.

His collections were presented in Rome, Florence, Milan, New York, and Paris, cementing his reputation as a global creative force. Revered as “the new man of fashion,” Soldano’s influence extended beyond the runway into film, editorial, and popular culture. Today, that legacy informs but does not confine the house’s next evolution.

A Measured, Intentional Future

The Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection signals more than a seasonal offering. It marks a deliberate new chapter for Sergio Soldano, one defined by noble materials, impeccable construction, and precious detail. At its core, the revived Sergio Soldano woman is elegant, powerful, and contemporary. Meanwhile, the house’s expanding retail presence reflects intentional growth guided by Italian savoir-faire, creative integrity, and long-term vision. In an era when many revivals rely on nostalgia, Sergio Soldano’s return feels distinctly different. It is not a recreation of the past; it is a rearticulation of identity for the present.

Featured images: Sergio Soldano

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