“Dry skin needs hydration to replenish its moisture barrier after shaving,” says Hughes. They recommend a denser formula (like a classic balm). “Or you can follow your favorite aftershave with a light moisturizer,” they say.

Oily skin types should prioritize lightweight formulas. If you aren’t sure about the balms or creams in question, Bachowski suggests sticking with an aftershave splash instead of a balm—ideally, one with witch hazel as its base to tone oil levels.

Your skin has more balance than most in terms of moisture levels. So, Bachowski recommends a post-shave with mild moisturizing properties and one with astringent properties. “That way, you are getting the best of both worlds,” she says.

Look for a witch hazel-based aftershave to help close the pores after shaving and keep bacteria out.

The most important factor for ingrown hair mitigation happens before the shave and as part of your regular regimen—but your post-shave can also have exfoliating properties to prevent anything from getting trapped inside the pores. “Folks prone to ingrown hairs need gentle exfoliation to help dissolve and clear out dead skin cells to encourage the hair to sprout through the skin instead of getting stuck underneath,” says Hughes. Bachowski says to use a witch hazel-based aftershave to help close the pores after shaving and keep bacteria out.

“Look for ingredients such as aloe or chamomile as they will help calm the skin of irritation and redness,” says Bachowski. A lot of your best work can be done before the shave, adds Hughes: “Sensitive skin needs proper preparation pre-shave to reduce razor irritation as well as calming aftershave to help keep redness at bay.”

“Witch hazel is a natural astringent that helps cleanse skin post-shave without the sting of alcohol,” says Hughes.

“Vitamin E helps hydrate the skin to replenish its barrier after having a razor pulled across it, while also having healing and anti-inflammatory properties,” they add.

“Bisabolol is an essential oil that helps calm skin and reduce redness,” Hughes explains. “It’s especially helpful for people with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.”

“Aloe helps repair the damaged skin after shaving as well as alleviates irritation and redness,” Bachowski says.

“Chamomile soothes the skin and leaves the skin feeling soft,” she adds.

“Alcohol has an unpleasant sting on freshly shaved skin, and it also can be harshly drying when what the skin needs is hydration,” says Hughes. They suggest prioritizing witch hazel or aloe for the same purifying aim, minus any pain.

Lots of aftershaves carry a fragrance, and it’s best when these are naturally derived scents as opposed to synthetic perfumes, Bachowski says. “Artificial fragrances can cause irritation to the skin or an allergic reaction.”

While some denser balms rely on nourishing, heavy ingredients like coconut oil or cocoa butter, these can easily clog pores (which are especially open and susceptible post-shave). “Shaving takes off your skin’s natural moisture barrier, leaving your pores open and more sensitive,” Hughes reiterates. Stick with the lightweight, oil-free hydrators if you are especially pimple-prone.

First things first: Using aftershave these days is a little less Kevin McCallister in Home Alone, and a lot more like a hot towel treatment at the barbershop. That’s because most of them don’t use alcohol anymore, since it dries out the skin. Aftershave acts like a high-grade moisturizer—akin to a winter balm or a night cream—by forming a thick, protective layer over top the vulnerable skin. Your pores should already be tightening (from the cold splash of water you applied, per your diligent shave regimen), and now the post-shave product can form a thick, defensive, and nourishing layer over top it all.

Aftershave also prevents the spread of bacteria and neutralizes the odds of infection, razor bumps, ingrown hairs, and more. Since most aftershaves these days aren’t centered on skin-drying ingredients like alcohol, they often include ingredients like tea tree oil, which naturally neutralize bacteria and prevent post-shave breakouts. However, if you want the potency of an astringent/antiseptic splash, then stick with witch hazel, which is a less abrasive way to keep pores unclogged and tone your skin. All of this being said, there are ways to neutralize the threat of bacteria without destroying the pH levels in your skin and risking an entirely different kind of burn. Primarily, you can minimize bacterial threats by following a proper shave regimen and practicing good razor hygiene.

Don’t confuse the hydrating function of aftershave with its ability to soothe and calm your sensitive skin. You just shed the uppermost layer of your cells, and that raw, vulnerable skin is in need of some serious care. Aftershave halts the burn and turns it into a tingle, relieving you of immediate pain and preventing redness and irritation for the days ahead. The big difference between many aftershaves and a standard moisturizer will be the inclusion of ingredients like aloe or eucalyptus, for this very reason.

The skin care and shave industries have come to refer to all post-shave products as “aftershave balms,” even if they don’t have a dense, balm-like consistency. So, assuming a balm and a lotion are both properly labeled, the balm will have a heftier concentration of nourishing and occlusive ingredients, while the lotion will be lightweight (almost watery). You can also use an aftershave cream as a midpoint or an aftershave splash/tonic as a purely liquid solution.

While alcohol can purify skin and prevent any infections in your freshly shorn skin, it is an extremely drying astringent ingredient. This can yield other skin care problems down the road, like redness and breakouts. (Not to mention, it can be extremely painful.) Instead, choose an aftershave with witch hazel or aloe.

Aftershave hydrates, calms, and cools (understandably) angry and irritated post-shave skin. If you shave with a razor, you need aftershave. Whether or not you’re prone to bumps, razor burn, or ingrown hairs—and especially if you’re prone to those things—you need it. And you need it for a host of reasons.