One of the first exits at The Row was a “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” LBD, and it was clear from that moment the collection was going to be another winner from a brand specialized in making its customers look even wealthier than they already are.
After the dress came dark topcoats worn over statement white collars, and trenches with Sherlock Holmes-style capes, or epaulets, or with a satiny finish. They were cut, buttoned and belted to precision, radiating the quiet luxury for which the brand is known.
Suits were strong-shouldered, spare and presented in the spirit of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who urged her fans to look in the mirror before leaving the house “and take one thing off.”
Slim jackets came with a single brooch, or a dusting of ostrich feathers at the front, while a black evening suit had a single diamond clip on each lapel.
The weather and the venue added to the allure of the collection. Rays of sunshine streamed through the big windows of The Row’s gilt-edged, mirrored showroom on Rue des Capucines, and before the show began waiters offered drinks to guests from silver trays.
There was something cool about it, too. The music was retro — with songs from Billy Idol, The Cure and Paul McCartney — while the looks were not all formal and polished.
Olive corduroy trousers or luxe white tracksuit bottoms flashed from under some of those finely tailored coats, while neat pencil skirts were paired with raw-edged, sheer organza blouses, some with contrast stitching. A cozy V-neck sweater and long, sheer skirt made a fine couple.
The only things out of place here were the bright white draped and wrapped dresses that looked as if they were made from bedsheets. They had an odd, clinical look and disrupted the flow of an otherwise beautiful collection.
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