There’s a precious artifact in my guest room closet: a cornflower blue fleece hoodie with three instantly recognizable letters emblazoned across the front: GAP. The hoodie was a gift from my parents circa 1997, and I wore it proudly for years before stashing it away for safekeeping. Nearly 30 years later, that sweatshirt still means a lot to me — and apparently, now a whole new group of people!

Gap has had its fair share of changes, but the retailer holds a special place in so many hearts. The San Francisco-based store was founded in 1969 and became known for its denim, peaking in the ’90s with its iconic commercials and cool, casual khakis, tech vests, logo tees and hoodies like my childhood fave, and signature colorful, striped holiday sweaters.

Fashion fans have such fond memories of their Gap’s older days that many have begun collecting vintage Gap. Some speak highly of the quality, especially in older items, as today’s mall and fast fashion pieces are often low-quality and fall apart after a few washes and wears. Some hunt for “holy grail” pieces like colorful 2000s-era holiday sweaters and scarves.

According to the digital secondhand retailer ThredUp, more and more people are opting for online resale and secondhand shopping — including to save money and for sustainability purposes — and Gap is one of the platform’s most-shopped brands, landing at number five on their top ten list. (The report also notes that resale is “no longer a secondary option,” and that many consumers are going directly to secondhand sites to shop.)

Gap has experienced a cultural resurgence of sorts in recent years, putting it back at the forefront after some years of dormancy. “Gap’s resurgence is a masterclass in cultural repositioning,” says Cynthia Lee, ThredUp’s Head of Merchandising. “By moving away from a discount-heavy identity, the brand has pivoted toward a model of scarcity, storytelling, and tactical brand heat.” Lee cites collaborations with LoveShackFancy, Béis, and Sandy Liang, the appointment of designer Zac Posen as creative director, and marketing campaigns reminiscent of the iconic Gap ads of the ‘90s, such as the KATSEYE “Milkshake” denim ad, as among the biggest drivers of Gap’s cultural relevance. “It’s a rare ‘everyone is invited’ moment that feels authentic rather than forced,” she says.