There are stylistic innovations occurring in the menswear-verse, even amidst the current cultural enthusiasm for loafers, wool coats, and earth tones—an aesthetic I can only describe as “Frog and Toad chic.” Unsurprisingly, it all started with Justin Bieber, the reigning king of white-boy swag (as he repeatedly reminded us on his most recent album titled, of course, Swag). For the better part of a year, the pop star has rolled the brims of his brand Skylrk’s signature skullcaps and lightweight beanies far beyond their natural fold, exposing their inner seams. This idiosyncratic headwear has become such a staple in Bieber’s wardrobe that The Cut chronicled the development this April, pointing out the style’s curious similarity to a durag. However, it’s worth noting that Bieber has crossed that line in the past. If he wanted to wear a durag, he would.

Model son Romeo Beckham—whose father, David Beckham, memorably wore a black durag during a meeting with then-Prince Charles in 2000—has also embraced the excessive beanie roll. Just last month, the middle Beckham son popped out courtside at the Rolex Paris Masters wearing a rolled bright green cap, a white tank top and two silver chains; in September, he appeared on the cover of Replica Man magazine wearing an Alexander McQueen scarf tied tautly around his scalp with an askew New Era Yankees fitted. And at the farmers market stalls in Los Angeles, it’s hard to miss Anwar Hadid with a skullcap atop his head, which he opts to wear unrolled and pulled down to the brow, à la Jesse Pinkman in the early seasons of Breaking Bad.

To be clear, this style is distinct from the beanie stylings of 2010s Bushwick hipsters, who tended to double-fold their hats to resemble a vintage sailor cap. Nor is it the laidback style popularized by rappers in the ’90s, in which the beanie’s crown is pulled high above the scalp. The technique at play here utilizes a form of smoke and mirrors. At a cursory glance, one could reasonably assume Bieber, Beckham, and Hadid waltzed into the nearest beauty supply shop and raided an aisle of protective headwear.

So, what do we call this emerging hat style? The white-boy durag? The Burbank bonnet? Perhaps the twisted toque? In the 21st century, the convergence of urban streetwear and high fashion have made it both not uncommon and largely acceptable for white celebrities to adopt traditionally Black fashion codes, like sagging jeans or iced-out grills. But there are certain visual artifacts—braided hairstyles and durags among them—that rightfully remain off-limits.The rise of the white-boy durag perhaps reflects a more provisional approach that’s slightly more impervious to social media backlash. After all, it’s not technically a durag, right? And yet, this particular cadre of stylish celebs usually pair their unique caps with streetwear staples like distressed denim, hoodies, and oversized tailoring. It seems they are all eyeing the same mood board.