I think we’re ready for a change. Daniel Todd, buying director at Mr Porter, sees the signs and thinks we’re in for a three-button comeback. “They are definitely having a bit of a resurgence; The Row have been championing this style for a while now, and Prada, which is always a barometer of trends, sent them down the runway for FW26,” He says.
In the face of an unstoppable two-button agenda, the three-button suit has carved out a niche for itself not with traditional tailoring houses, but among fashion-forward labels. Designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Thom Browne are lauded for their tailoring, which frequently includes suits with three (or more) buttons. Menswear’s indie brands like Evan Kinori, Margaret Howell, and James Coward have an affinity for the style, too, offering a restrained yet irreverent approach to tailoring.
But it’s not just the avant-garde and underground that are bearing the three-button torch. Alex Mill and Buck Mason have included three-button sport coats in their catalog, often mining references from vintage workwear. Antique chore coats are a logical cross-reference point given their similarity to sportcoats. But they also reframe the sportcoat as a purely utilitarian garment rather than a jacket designed to telegraph manliness. Instead of relying on broad shoulders and a V-taper, they’re designed for a straighter, fuller cut. The fact that these more mainstream menswear brands have adopted the three-button suit suggests an appetite for a mass audience beyond fashion’s elite and early adopters.
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