The same sentiment extended to the celebs in the front row, where another viral English rapper, EsDeeKid—the masked Liverpudlian Timothée Chalamet lookalike himself—sat with an enormous croc-leather Gucci bag that he joked was “full of weed.” Demna, a perennial excavator of the zeitgeist, was tapping into a new wave; according to a New York Times interview that was published yesterday, the designer discovered the likes of Mink and EsDee from his Spotify algorithm.

“The thing is there are a lot of people on the runway and also in the audience today that I listen to their music, I consume their art,” Demna told my colleague, Samuel Hine, backstage. “I really like what they do and I feel like one of my responsibilities at Gucci is also trying to bring the cultural relevance to it and the cultural relevance always comes from underground culture, not from mainstream, even for a big brand. And I felt like it made sense for me to build my vision and starting to create this Gucci community including these people.”

The designer also said that he’d instructed the models to own their respective walks: “We told each of them to kind of be themselves how they are, but exaggerate it to really like, not try to hide their personality.”

The internet rappers’ presence in and at show aside, the uneasy-sleazy luxury of the clothes themselves—in tandem with that near-dissociated attitudes of the models who showcased them—suggested the designer is likely also aware of another unsettling trend that’s been leaking out of the internet as of late: looksmaxxing. One redheaded model was so buff and angular—dare I say, frame-moggingly buff and angular—that he walked with a lilt, his huge muscles no doubt further impeded by the skintight polo shirt and leather trousers. (“Looks like AI,” commented another model, Sebastian Hedberg, on Instagram.) One can only imagine that if he’d had a bit more lead time, the designer may well have cast a certain ASU frat leader to walk in the show.

Samuel Hine contributed reporting.