Zuhair Murad returned to the languid elegance of the Belle Epoque teased in his pre-fall collection, this time channeling the sweeping brushstrokes and society portraits of Giovanni Boldini.

The result was a collection that leaned into Murad’s signature glamour while subtly lightening it up.

Boldini was known as the “Master of Swish” for his works’ sense of movement and luminous color, and Murad translated that dynamism into fabrics designed to catch the light such as burnout velvet, chiffon and satin pieces that shimmered with movement.

His emphasis on motion gave a sense that the dresses were mid-swirl in one of the painter’s society portraits.

The corset, long a Murad fixation, is newly relevant in a market that has rediscovered structure — and the “snatched” waist — and was used across a wider range of looks, from sharply tailored jackets paired with trousers to midi and minidresses.

Meanwhile, the over-the-top embellishment that is typically abundant in the brand’s eveningwear was dialed back slightly. Sequins, feathers and beadwork were still present but used with more restraint, allowing silhouette to take center stage.

A controlled palette reinforced the mood. Burgundy, deep purple and rust tones grounded the collection, while floral accents — brooches, appliqués and embroidered blooms — punctuated jackets and sleeves. These slimmer silhouettes have been a hit on the red carpet, most recently with several key placements at the Actor Awards.

But Murad’s clients still come for the drama, and the closing ballgowns delivered, with voluminous skirts and plenty of sparkle. But the broader message was evolution: a house known for maximalist sparkle exploring a more measured glamour.

The Beirut-based brand said that Middle Eastern clients are still holding appointments via Zoom in this all-important buying season, and that plans for a multistory retail flagship in Paris are still on track for a late 2026 opening to showcase his expanding lifestyle universe beyond eveningwear.