A popular beauty item might come with a lot more risk than assumed. Research out today finds that hair extensions often contain a plethora of toxic chemicals linked to cancer and other health problems.
Scientists at the Silent Spring Institute analyzed dozens of hair extension products. They identified a wide variety of toxins, including some not commonly detected in other consumer products. The findings suggest that the safety of hair extensions should be better regulated, the researchers say.
“This is a category of products that has flown under the radar, has avoided scrutiny for a long time, and there is a lack of regulations around these products,” lead author Elissia Franklin, an analytical chemist at Silent Spring, told Gizmodo.
A hidden danger
The Silent Spring Institute is a nonprofit organization focused primarily on studying the environmental causes of cancer, particularly breast cancer.
Franklin joined the institute in 2021, around the same time that Silent Spring researchers published a study showing that swapping out old couches for newer ones can reduce people’s exposure to harmful flame retardant chemicals. But flame retardants are used elsewhere, including in hair extensions (particularly synthetic ones)—and that made Franklin and her team curious enough to dig deeper.
“If we’re trying to eliminate flame retardants from couches in our home, then why is it okay to sell these flame retardants in products that are very intimately used?” said Franklin, who has herself used hair extension braids. Flame retardants, dyes, and other possibly concerning chemicals might be used to make hair extensions flame resistant, waterproof, or antimicrobial, the researchers point out.
The team tested 43 brands of hair extensions, which were purchased locally from retailers in Houston, Texas, and also online. The products were chosen based on their popularity (either on social media platforms or in online search results), marketing, and whether they made certain claims, such as being waterproof or nontoxic. Importantly, the researchers used a method known as non-targeted analysis, allowing them to screen for many different chemicals at once.
Ultimately, they identified at least 48 chemicals flagged as hazardous by other groups, such as California’s Safer Consumer Products program. These included flame retardants, which were found in both synthetic and natural products, and 17 chemicals linked to breast cancer. All but two products had some amount of toxic chemicals (notably, these two had “nontoxic” and “toxic-free” labeling), and ten products surprisingly contained a class of tin-based chemicals known as organotins, which aren’t typically found in consumer-facing products.
“We were shocked when we saw that. This is a category of chemical that had been used on boats and on ships to keep the barnacles from sticking on. And it was actually harmful to aquatic life,” Franklin said (for this reason, organotins were largely banned for use on ships 25 years ago). Organotins have also been linked to skin irritation in humans, which is commonly reported by hair extension users, Franklin notes.
The team’s results were published Wednesday in the journal Environment & Health. They also echo the findings of a Consumer Reports investigation released last year, which found dangerous chemicals in all ten of the most popular synthetic hair extension brands that were tested.
What to do about hair extensions
Hair extensions are a popular cosmetic product, especially among Black women. More than two-thirds of Black women are estimated to use hair extensions at least once a year, according to a 2021 study.
Given how prevalent potential toxins are in these products, there needs to be more government oversight and regulation of the companies that make them, Franklin argues. And there has been some positive news on that front. Several states, like New York and New Jersey, are considering legislation that would force companies to disclose all their ingredients or even outright ban certain ones. Last summer, several U.S. House representatives reintroduced the Safer Beauty Bill Package, a series of bills intended to update and expand laws governing the safety of hair extensions and other cosmetic products.
“I think that’s the best plan of action. Because you shouldn’t have to choose between your hairstyle and your health,” said Franklin, who hopes to continue studying these products in her research.
Until these or similar laws are passed, it will be hard for women to completely avoid toxic exposures from their beauty regimen. That said, the researchers did find some evidence that using apple cider vinegar to prewash synthetic hair—a common home remedy—can reduce, if not completely eliminate, tin-based chemicals from products.
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