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How Queer Identity Helps Shape Designer Olivia Cheng’s Dauphinette Collections

How Queer Identity Helps Shape Designer Olivia Cheng’s Dauphinette Collections

Michelle Kammerman/BFA.com

TV: Growing up, I imagine there weren’t many queer AAPI public figures you could look up to. How are you hoping your visibility will impact the people who come after you?

OC: I definitely did not see any queer AAPI representation in entertainment or media. I still don’t see or hear much about it. I’m certainly far from a public figure myself, but maybe there are other people out there who will read and relate to my experiences. As a Chinese-American raised in the Midwest whose parents were both born in China in the 1950s, my queerness has definitely put a significant strain on my relationship with my parents. Before I realized I was queer I had a very consistent, positive relationship with both my parents, and after they learned that I was in a queer relationship they largely stopped speaking to me. Now, and I’m kind of nervous to expose them like this, I haven’t seen my parents in nearly two years. It’s obviously sad and disappointing as someone who feels like they’ve “done everything else right,” but at the same time, I understand they’re from an extremely different upbringing and culture than I am. Their reaction is not necessarily their fault, but it is their responsibility, and only time will tell how they choose to handle things. On my end, the door is always open. My parents know that I love them, but I’m not comfortable ignoring my identity in order to maintain a surface-level connection. I hope that eventually they can accept the full spectrum of who I am, even if it doesn’t completely align with the daughter they imagined for themselves.

TV: Dauphinette, a word that adds a feminine suffix to a traditionally masculine role (the heir to a throne), feels very queer in its essence. Was that the goal in its inception? Was it a tongue-in-cheek or subtle way to let your audience know your POV?

OC: Although the experience of being a founder has obviously been a huge influence on my development, I’ve always thought of Dauphinette as a separate entity from myself. With that in mind, when I started my brand at 19, I definitely didn’t have queerness (or anything else really) on the brain when it came to picking a name. I liked Dauphinette because it was cheeky, a touch subversive, and felt aesthetically aligned with what I wanted for my brand. I’m really glad that the name Dauphinette has continued to feel so versatile throughout the years, and that it is able to be reflective of my own developing identity, and the brand’s identity, eight years later.

Dauphinette Designer Olivia Cheng's SpringSummer Collection Highlights Her Unapologetic Queerness

Michelle Kammerman/BFA.com

Dauphinette Designer Olivia Cheng's SpringSummer Collection Highlights Her Unapologetic Queerness

Michelle Kammerman/BFA.com

TV: As a queer woman myself, I’ve noticed that we’re often made to feel like our experiences aren’t valid or that we pander to a more heteronormative gaze because we present as feminine. I have come to see the inherent queerness in, especially in hyperfemininity, and I’m curious if these are sentiments you’ve encountered before and I’d love to know your thoughts on what makes “queer art” queer.

OC: I am very aware of the fact that nobody who meets me would automatically think, “she’s definitely gay” or “she’s so queer.” I think in business, where men and misogyny very much do still prevail, this has helped me a lot, and honestly, there is a lot of power to be felt there. I would never keep my identity a ‘secret,’ but there is a real sense of empowerment that comes with realizing, by brushing up against misogyny personified, that queerness is not a performance, it’s not something I need to use to my advantage or need to feel constantly disadvantaged by; I simply am who I am. I don’t need to look a certain way or speak a certain way to be real or validated in my sexuality. I don’t think “queer art” needs to look or sound a certain way — whether it’s loud and proud or quiet and profound, any art that exists despite itself is remarkable.

TV: Our former cover star, Vivian Jenna Wilson, is making her NYFW debut this year and walking in your show. I imagine this is a huge deal for both of you, but I would love to hear how this came about.

OC: As we began thinking about the collection as a show and not just as a rack of clothes, my team and I really wanted to consider how things like casting could not only bring the clothes to life, but actually contribute to our storytelling and showcase our values as people and as a brand. Vivian immediately came to mind, and we reached out to see if she was interested. And once we heard back, we just crossed our fingers and hoped we could sort everything out logistically. She’s absolutely going to be the next it-girl. She’s a light in the dark. I think she represents hope for a lot of people, and I am so excited to share this moment together.​

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