Physical exfoliation, sometimes also called manual or mechanical exfoliation, uses friction to scrub away dead skin cells. That’s your typical face scrub. Technically speaking, using a regular cleanser with an exfoliating tool would also be considered physical exfoliation.

Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, relies on certain acids, like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), to loosen dead skin cells, while enzymatic exfoliation, considered to be the most gentle option, recruits enzymes from natural sources like papaya or pineapple to find and eliminate dead cells. “Enzymes work by gently ‘eating’ the dead skin cells, leaving the healthy cells alone,” says Chelsea Blackburn, licensed esthetician and founder of Lore Skincare. “If your skin is really sensitive, using an exfoliant with enzymes is a great way to gently remove dead skin cells.”

While all face scrubs use physical exfoliants, like beads or particles, some also include acids or enzymes—or both! It’s important to understand the kind of exfoliants you’re using in order to better understand how each affects your skin and what works best for you.

On a related note, other products in your regimen may even already contain exfoliants without you realizing it; for example, nowadays it’s pretty standard for toners to contain AHAs or BHAs. “It’s a common reason I see people in the clinic,” says Sarah Sung, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Perq in Seattle. “They’re red and flaky and they don’t know why, and it turns out they’ve chosen a bunch of products that individually are great but combined are like a chemical peel, essentially.”

Skin Type: Depending on whether your skin is oily, dry, or a combination, the product you choose and even the way you use it can come into play. “Our more oily patients tend to tolerate exfoliation better, whether it’s chemical or mechanical exfoliation, whereas our drier skin types tend to be a little bit more sensitive,” says Dr. Sung. If your skin is on the drier side, you’ll want to start with a less intense exfoliant, and use it less frequently than might be recommended on the packaging—at least initially. “Oily skin types might be able to be a little more aggressive,” she says. “But, again, I would always start out slow and work your way up.”

Furthermore, while scrubs are the OG exfoliators and continue to be the most popular form of exfoliation today, that doesn’t mean they’re for everyone. “If you have active acne or breakouts, you should stay away from physical scrubs and use chemical exfoliation instead, as it is less likely to spread that bacteria around,” says Blackburn. “You’ll want to look for something with salicylic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, glycolic acid, or a blend.”

Similarly, chemical exfoliation would be a better bet if you have specific concerns like sunspots or fine lines. “They’re able to go a little deeper in the skin, which helps to fade pigmentation and reduce the appearance of fine lines,” she says.

Meet the Experts

• Chelsea Blackburn, licensed esthetician and founder of Lore Skincare
• Sarah Sung, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Perq