Are watches more inaccessible than ever? The strangest press appointment I had was at F.P. Journe’s manufacture in the heart of Geneva., In a back room, among tables set up for the brand’s VVIP clients to sip the wine Journe makes and eat fat chunks of Parmesan, the novelties were displayed in two vitrines.
Journe has 13 novelties in total this year. They were good, interesting watches I’d love to show you! But I can’t. Not because I don’t have images, but because a small sign appended to the glass cases housing the watches cautioned something I’ve never seen at a press event for a new product: No photos.
The independent maker has never been hotter than it is right now. Last year, a Journe watch made in collaboration with and owned by the director Francis Ford Coppola sold for $10.75 million at auction, and nearly every piece—both vintage and modern—is exploding in price right now. Even the Elegante, FPJ’s take on a quartz watch that starts for about $17,000, is now selling for upwards of $100,000 on the secondary market.
This year’s novelties are among the most exclusive products Journe has ever released. So rather than further broil collectors already frustrated by the lack of access, FPJ chose not to make any images of the pieces publicly available. But I can describe them to you, which I’d like to do, because they are crazy.
Journe is releasing two box sets. One includes four very blinged-out versions of his Tourbillon Vertical, a watch that tilts the spinning complication so it looks like a buzzsaw coming right at you. The four versions are set with sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds with dials made of sodalite, green jade, ruby, and white jade, respectively. These can only be bought in a set, and Journe will make just one set per year. And he’ll find no shortage of customers willing to pay the price, which starts at…are you ready?…8 million Swiss francs!
The other set, which includes nine watches, is limited to five boxes a year, and costs a little over 1 million Swiss francs. This is an entire collection in a box: all three of Journe’s Linesport family watches—the Chronometre, Centigraphe, and Chronographe—in three different colors each. The red is part of the existing collection, but the new gold-salmon and baby-blue hues are exclusive to this set.
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