Back in the exciting days of the First Industrial Revolution, the textile sector was one of the driving forces behind a “movement” set to change the world, as people knew it then and as we know it now. 

Centuries later, the textile sector is once again a catalyst for innovation, still heavily influenced by technological advancements which have developed way past the coal and steam era. Petroleum and its derivatives came strongly into the picture, with this fossil resource being added to the list of chemicals used in dyeing and the production of synthetic fibers. The modern restructuring of the sector also reflects a more complex and fragmented landscape including economy, society, consumers’ behavior and environmental awareness. 

What has not changed is the place where this new wave of innovation is grounded. Europe was at the center of the industrial revolution, where it all started from Great Britain before spreading to the rest of the continent and beyond. As we enter the second quarter of a whole new century, it is still here that we are seeing the strongest signs of upcoming changes. But is Europe ready to lead a global shift for a more sustainable and eco-friendly textile industry?

The ugly truth

The textile industry is one of the most polluting in the world, with particularly heavy repercussions on water consumption and carbon emissions. The overall sector emits roughly 1.2 billion tonnes of CO₂ every year, with the fashion industry using up to 93 billion m³ of water per year.

The environmental impact goes well beyond these two major areas, with different ramifications throughout the entire production cycle: harvesting for resources and materials, manufacturing, the supply chain, logistics and transportation of goods, all the way to aftersale disposal and waste. As a big component of textile production, the dyeing process alone is responsible for 20 percent of industrial water pollution.

It’s obvious that it’s time to take decisive actions. The pressure to accelerate change is coming from all fronts: climate targets, regulations, consumer expectations and, importantly, from manufacturers themselves. Now, if for a moment we imagine these as people participating in a meeting to discuss actions, what we’d likely see is a multitude of voices each bringing their own perspective forward. While this would make for a compelling and collaborative approach, there would be one key element missing: a leading voice taking charge and guiding the conversation forward.

The perfect storm

Europe is primed to become this leading voice and spearhead a global transformation. Geographically at the center, there are several factors that make it the perfect environment to develop a new way of thinking about the textile industry, and to bring concrete changes with lasting effects.

In the past few years, Europe has already shown the ability to take regulatory leadership, actively pushing sustainability as a priority more than other regions in the world. The European Green Deal aims to make Europe the world’s first climate neutral and resilient economy, and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) took things further with the goal to make products more durable, repairable and overall more environmentally friendly. While these two landmark policy frameworks are not specific to the textile industry, their implementation within the sector shows how Europe is looking to create a dynamic market for cleaner manufacturing technologies, and not just simply worry about compliance.

The innovation ecosystem is another factor, with European countries recognising and supporting the contribution of R&D to the economic outcome of the industry. The European Innovation Council (EIC) fosters growth through funding opportunities and supporting innovation and inclusion in the industry alongside other international initiatives led by national players (BPI, France Chimie, France Deeptech, BioEconomy for Change,…). The Fashion Pact and the Global Fashion Agenda spontaneously bring together key players and innovators from the private sector to develop collaborative responses to the biggest challenges and issues.

Europe can count on an existing and growing network of disruptors that are tackling the issue from different directions, combining different perspectives. Developments in key sciences like chemistry and biology, as well as in materials and resources, go hand in hand with technology providers and startups developing groundbreaking applications of engineering, AI and much more. 

An extension of this dynamic ecosystem can be seen in the growing sense of shared responsibility and increasing awareness of the environmental impact of the textile industry. Consumers are more and more interested in the carbon footprint of what they buy and they actively look for brands that support their choices. On the other hand, manufacturers and retailers are learning to showcase their commitment to green processes as a key selling point, and eco-friendly processes are now not just an afterthought but a priority. This creates a positive closed cycle with benefits for everyone: regulations drive adoption while consumers reward sustainability.

An articulate solution to a complex problem

Despite being well positioned to lead the new textile revolution, Europe is also still facing challenges and drawbacks. Offshoring production has long been an issue for the industry, with manufacturers favouring Asian countries due to cheaper costs and softer regulations. However, Europe is also one of the biggest global markets and retailers looking to take tap into this part of the economy must comply with local regulations and standards in order to be able to sell their products.

European institutions have been on the right path with the introduction of dedicated guidelines like REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals), focusing on the elimination of harmful chemical substances: while this regulation applies to all industries, its impact is certainly bigger for a chemical-heavy sector such as textile manufacturing. The whole industry is awaiting the evolution of the EU Ecolabel, which will introduce the Digital Product Passport, the Product Environment Footprint and sustainability information.

But creating regulation cannot happen in a void. Across Europe, there are already many projects promoted by trade organizations and private companies that are focusing on delivering green innovation across the sector. The United States and Asia are yet to develop a truly common approach, favouring isolated initiatives over a connected network of shared innovations.

Promoting and imposing shared practices is important, but it has to go hand in hand with enabling industrial capacity and actively scaling sustainable innovation. There are many interesting technologies still in the pilot stage, the startup scene is going through an exciting phase but it needs the legislative support of decision makers, and countries have to find the right regulatory balance between national and continental policies, and often navigate more than one framework at the time across different sectors, from supply chain to aftersales. 

Prevention over intervention 

We are already witnessing a strong alignment between policymakers, stakeholders and manufacturers, working together not only to act on the outputs of the industry but, crucially, to address the key issues from the ground up. As innovation in materials, processes, and recycling technologies gains momentum, the conversation is shifting: sustainability is no longer seen as the result to aim for, but as an operational priority that can be delivered with the right support and investment and should drive actions.

The challenge we face is how to reinvent the industry in a climate-constrained world while balancing economic resilience with environmental responsibility. Europe has the edge, especially when it comes to recycling and circularity proving that sustainability and industrial competitiveness can go hand in hand. 

Perhaps then the question isn’t really about whether Europe can lead an eco-friendly overhaul of the textile industry. This is already happening, and it’s a long term commitment. The crucial point is why it should.

Philippe Berlan, CEO of Everdye, has more than 20 years of experience in digital transformation and business strategy in the retail industry. He has worked for leading brands like Petit Bateau, Lancel and La Redoute before joining Everdye in 2024.